All across India, handloom weaving is an age-old and traditional art form. The advent of mechanised looms more or less killed this art and it's no longer a much sought after occupation. Nevertheless, there are pockets all over where artisans are being encouraged to keep traditional weaving alive in a world where fashion is a fickle mistress.
In India's North East, especially Arunachal Pradesh, machine looms have not made their presence felt in the same manner as the rest of the country. Women across the region learn to weave at a very young age and become adept at handling the portable, small-ish looms known as backstrap or loin looms.(Watch this video).
Unlike, the rest of India, the weavers in the North East are only women. Not some women or of certain tribes, but women in all the tribes seem to be well versed in the art of weaving. Nowhere did I come across any men involved in the process.
In Arunachal Pradesh, one of the weavers from the Adi Gallong tribe said, "Cloth with a simple design and just one or two colours takes around 6-7 days to weave. But it's tiring work since I have to sit in a fixed position for hours on end. If the design is more complex, it takes much longer." She is one of the more enterprising women who weaves not just for her own household but also on custom orders from other households in her town who don't have the time or the inclination to weave anymore.
The cloth woven by the women at home are worn on special occassions while for everyday wear, mainland India's (and I suspect China's) fabrics especially synthetics have made inroads into these interior regions. Demand for hand woven cotton or woollen cloth has naturally, fallen. (Read more here).
The government has set up centres for handloom weaving where people are taught the skill and supported with marketing and finance. But they are mostly in the towns which are far from the villages and not as accessible due to lack of public transport and not so great road conditions.
Traders from the northern states of India bring in the coloured threads and yarns required to weave the beautiful fabrics. If the women dyed the threads in the past, it does not seem to be the practise anymore. It makes cotton more expensive while synthetics become more affordable.
In Nagaland, since the larger towns are more accessible, there is a demand for their traditional weaves mostly from tourists. Besides the traditional shawls which the state is so famous for, there are bags, stoles, jackets etc also available. The drawback though is that the more intricate and elaborate cloth is not woven much. Less expensive and easier to market cloth is largely sold in all the souvenir shops.
Inspite of that, the people were so friendly and hospitable that it's unbelievably heart warming. A reason to go back again and again. Most definitely!
Other posts on the North East in this blog:
To market, to market
How green is my valley
North East of India
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| Hills hidden by the clouds in Nagaland |
In India's North East, especially Arunachal Pradesh, machine looms have not made their presence felt in the same manner as the rest of the country. Women across the region learn to weave at a very young age and become adept at handling the portable, small-ish looms known as backstrap or loin looms.(Watch this video).
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| Trademark colours of a Naga shawl |
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| A backstrap loom in an Adi Gallong home in Arunachal Pradesh |
Unlike, the rest of India, the weavers in the North East are only women. Not some women or of certain tribes, but women in all the tribes seem to be well versed in the art of weaving. Nowhere did I come across any men involved in the process.
In Arunachal Pradesh, one of the weavers from the Adi Gallong tribe said, "Cloth with a simple design and just one or two colours takes around 6-7 days to weave. But it's tiring work since I have to sit in a fixed position for hours on end. If the design is more complex, it takes much longer." She is one of the more enterprising women who weaves not just for her own household but also on custom orders from other households in her town who don't have the time or the inclination to weave anymore.
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| A lady weaver in Arunachal Pradesh |
The cloth woven by the women at home are worn on special occassions while for everyday wear, mainland India's (and I suspect China's) fabrics especially synthetics have made inroads into these interior regions. Demand for hand woven cotton or woollen cloth has naturally, fallen. (Read more here).
The government has set up centres for handloom weaving where people are taught the skill and supported with marketing and finance. But they are mostly in the towns which are far from the villages and not as accessible due to lack of public transport and not so great road conditions.
 |
| Looms at the Govt. run crafts centre in Aalo, Arunachal Pradesh |
Traders from the northern states of India bring in the coloured threads and yarns required to weave the beautiful fabrics. If the women dyed the threads in the past, it does not seem to be the practise anymore. It makes cotton more expensive while synthetics become more affordable.
 |
| A shop in Kohima selling woollen yarn and cotton threads |
In Nagaland, since the larger towns are more accessible, there is a demand for their traditional weaves mostly from tourists. Besides the traditional shawls which the state is so famous for, there are bags, stoles, jackets etc also available. The drawback though is that the more intricate and elaborate cloth is not woven much. Less expensive and easier to market cloth is largely sold in all the souvenir shops.
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| A shawl of the Chakhesang tribe at the State Museum in Kohima, Nagaland. The museum is the only place you are likely to find an intricate shawl like this or among a family's heirlooms. |
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| Sling bags with traditional Naga motifs & designs |
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| Hand-woven shawl with traditional Naga motifs |
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| Hand-woven shawl in a traditional Naga design Available at A Full Moon |
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| A hand-woven scarf from Arunachal Pradesh Available at A Full Moon |
Given the area is not very accessible and there are innumerable other hardships to deal with, the people I met were very self-sufficient. They have to rely on their own skills and devices to make life a little easier for themselves. (Read more here).
Other posts on the North East in this blog:
How green is my valley
North East of India
Hi,
ReplyDeleteDo you have any contact number of these artisans. We are into handmade and eco friendly products.